Banff, Alberta
Banff National Park in Alberta Canada encompasses one of the most beautiful and serene sections of the Rocky Mountains, in either the United States or Canada. It is a popular area, and people come from around the world to spend time not only in BNP, but also for hundreds of miles around, from Calgary through the mountains and glaciers of Banff, Jasper, and beyond. The first Canadian National Park, Banff was established in 1885 as Rocky Mountains Park and the name was changed to Banff in 1930 after the local train station, which was itself named for the Scottish county of Banffshire. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 and is the most visited place in Alberta, and most visited National Park in Canada with 4.5 million tourists each year.
The National Park is home to the town of Banff, and this and the immediate area is generally what people mean when they say Banff, as well as some of the places of interest which are nearby but not technically in the park. We will touch on both the park, town, and surrounding area, because if you visit you will be close enough to do it all.
You need a pass to use Banff National Park and other nature areas. Make sure you have the right pass for the right area. Close to Canmore is the Kananaskis Improvement District, which is concurrent with the Kananaskis Country, and you need a seperate pass to use the nature areas here, like the Grassi Lakes, the Three Sisters, and Ha Ling Peak. You can purchase a Banff National Park pass on the road into the town, so it cannot be more convenient. You can also go online to procure one.
Things To Do and See in Banff
Comprised of 6,000 square kilometers or 2,300 square miles the park possesses 1,609 kilometers or 1,000 miles of hiking trails. Many of the trails are marked for biking and the riding of horses, and there are ample waterways to kayak, fish, and canoe in either river or lake. Hot springs are also present in the park, and following the inspired naming pattern of the area they are called the Upper Hot Springs of Banff. The next closest are the Radium Hot Springs, a drive of approximately 1.5 hours.
Castleguard Cave is the longest, and among the deepest, caves in Canada. It might be longer, but has not been surveyed past 66,700 feet, nearly 13 miles. That is longer than most people want to travel underground, but as always, be discrete when exploring caves no matter how far you plan to go.
Banff has hundreds of distinct glaciers, roughly 100 of which are visible from the Icefields Parkway, which connects Banff to Jasper National Park in the north. This drive is one of the great scenic road trips, and is a great tourism draw to the area. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are two of the most photographed and noteworthy sights in Banff and, among other lakes here and elsewhere, owe their distinct and striking blue color to glacial flour. As glaciers slowly move over hill and mountain they grind down rocks and boulders with their immense weight, placing incredible pressure on the relatively small pieces of earth. This pressure and movement, slow though it is, grinds those rocks to particles smaller than dust, which is where we get the term glacial flour. This rock flour runs down into the lakes and rivers with the melt water, and, suspended in the water, changes the light in the water to give it a bluish color.
Lake Louise is one of those places every tiktoker and influencer is going to include on their “top things to do in Banff” itinerary. Despite the crowds of unserious hikers and gawkers, it is a worthwhile place to go, beautiful, and easy to reach by road. Its popularity makes it crowded at most times, but if you go before light to see sunrise or wait until sunset, there will be fewer people. There is a large parking lot onsite, but the parking fee is around $35 Canadian. There is also a hotel abutting the lake.
The Big Beehive hike and the tea house on the path are big draws as well, adding to the sometimes congested feel of Lake Louise. There is skiing in the area, hot springs, and you can rent a kayak or canoe and paddle around the lake for a while.
Lake Moraine is similar to Lake Louise in color, but is a bit harder to reach. They are fairly close to each other, of a similar size, both fed by glacial water and therefore, both have that telltale and poignantly beautiful blue color. It is not possible, at this time, to simply drive to Moraine. There is a road leading to it and you used to be able to drive yourself. You will need to stop at or near Lake Louise and take a bus, bike, or walk there. This does help with the congestion as not every visitor to Lake Louise also chooses to visit Moraine.
The Bow Valley Parkway is one of the best places to see wildlife, with consistent sightings of elk, moose, and bear in addition to the various smaller animals you’d expect. During our most recent visit, access to the Parkway from Highway 1 was blocked, as was southbound traffic after Johnston Canyon Campground. You can still drive from the campground northward, so the quickest way to access this road by car, if you’re coming from the south, is at Castle Junction.
Vehicle traffic is obstructed so that cyclists and hikers can use the road without cars, and so that the wildlife can enjoy the area without the noise and danger of cars and trucks. During our most recent visit, there were grizzly sightings on multiple days along this road, so if you want to utilize the area, be aware, and be prepared. Bear mace is available to purchase or rent in Banff, and especially at the Visitor Center. Also be aware of the presence of moose, and that bear mace will have no effect on a moose, which is more dangerous in its own way than a grizzly. Avoid both if at all possible, and NEVER attempt to initiate contact. Bear in mind that just because wildlife is abundant and sightings are more common, that doesn’t mean you will see anything. Wildlife spotting is an investment, and while you choose your spots to make the odds the best they can be, it may not pay off.
The Vermillion Lakes are three connected bodies of water just outside Banff proper, and they offer some of the most picturesque views within an hour’s drive. They are viewable from Cave and Basin National Historic Site on the south side, and from the Trans-Canada Highway on the north; there is a scenic pulloff on the eastbound lanes. There is a shared road called Vermillion Lakes Road that you can walk along, and this intersects with the Fenland Trail. If you need a handicap accessible trail, Vermillion Lakes Road is paved and offers great views and opportunities to see the many birds, like eagles, warblers, and loons, that visit the lakes.
Towering over Canmore are Mount Rundle, Ha Ling, Miners Peak, and the Three Sisters. Though in Kananaskis and not Banff, they are close enough to merit mentioning, they are all hikable, and as most people traveling to Banff take the highway from Calgary, you will most likely pass them. If you spend time in Canmore, these peaks will loom over you during your stay, casting their great shadows over your hours of fun. All of these are great hikes, and we will touch on a couple here, in brief.
The Three Sisters are three prominent peaks, unmistakable as you see them in profile. The smallest sister has no trail and is not recommended for anyone as the top would require climbing and would be difficult for accomplished mountaineers. As the other two sisters are taller, it is not really worth the effort. The other two sisters have established routes and trails, and provide a panoramic view of Canmore and the surrounding valley.
Ha Ling Peak is one of the summits closest to Canmore and is located in the Kananaskis Conservation Area, for which you will need to purchase at least a day pass, which you can do online. There is a trailhead with parking and restrooms. The hike itself is simple, with switchbacks, stairs, and some mild scree and unmaintained trail at the top. A swift ascent can be done in under 2 hours, and a normal pace can get you up and down in under 4 hours of hiking, with a few breaks and a little time at the top. While you are up there, consider taking a short jaunt over to Miners Peak. It will only add about 20-30 minutes to the overall hiking time, and you get two peaks in one go. While at the top you can see large portions of the local ranges, the entire town of Canmore, and even the tallest buildings in Calgary on a clear day.
Cave and Basin National Historic Site is comprised of some of the best features the Earth has to offer: mountains, rivers, waterfalls, marshland, thermal springs, and as the name heavily implies, caves. There are several miles of trails under the auspices of Cave and Basin, and these meet with other trails as well, though they can be periodically closed. On our last trip there were signs warning of large animals in breeding season, so check at the Banff Visitor Center before venturing out very far.
The paved trek to Sundance Canyon follows the Bow River for much of the way and is great for less fit or less mobile travelers. The boardwalk Marsh Loop is short and allows visitors to see the hot springs and marshy areas where many birds can be observed, though the boardwalk and stairs may prohibit wheelchairs and other mobility challenged people.
Animals in Banff include:
Moose, elk, grizzly bear, black bear, wolverine, pika, white tail deer, mule deer, and mountain goat, among others.
Banff is home to caribou, also known as reindeer! They are endangered in North America, but there are a couple of hundred still in the area of the National Park, and there are plans to have more introduced.
Birds in Banff include:
Crow, raven, eagle, osprey, kingfisher, warbler, duck, canadian goose, robin, grackle, greybird, and loon, among others.
The Town of Banff
The town has a population of around 9,000 and relies heavily on tourism, and that reliance is reflected in the quaint, alpine architecture, the types of shops and stores in the downtown area, and the dense concentration of public transportation and accommodations around Banff Ave, the local main street. If you want to avoid the tourism or city feel, we recommend staying outside of Banff. If you want to shop, experience nightlife, eat out, and be around people, Banff is where it’s at unless you drive to Calgary.
As the population hub in the area, this is also where the supplies, information, and resources will be located. The Visitor Center is on Main Street and you can procure information about hikes, conditions, and recommendations from the rangers there. You can also rent bear mace if you are planning on venturing out into anything more than a few miles from town, although it is worth noting that bears can and do come to town, or the odd golf course, as they see fit.
If you need something, Canmore is going to have anything you need, and will be where the locals do their regular, day to day shopping. It is still tourism focused, but to a lesser degree. Accommodations may be priced lower in Canmore, and even less so as you get further from Banff. Think about how far you want to drive each day for your activities and the trade off of a lower price.
The three highest towns in Canada are in, or near, Banff National Park. In order of decreasing elevation, they are Lake Louise, Banff, and Canmore.
You will have to pay to park in downtown Banff. You can park by the train station for free, though and the walk to Main Street and downtown Banff takes about ten minutes.
Accommodations
There are accommodations everywhere, and you can find a lot of options on Airbnb and a quick online search. The closer you are to downtown Banff or downtown Canmore, the more you can expect to pay. In the summer, the price will be higher due to the increased demand as people flock to the area to hike and take in the sights. You can find deals in winter, when overall tourist numbers are down, and in spring and fall outside of shoulder season. Summer will have the highest prices, and best weather.
Transportation
It is best to have a car in the Banff area, although there are options for buses and vans from Calgary and towns closer to, and in, the area. If you want the flexibility to head to farther sights, like Lake Louise, or if you want to do your own hikes off of the beaten path, a car is the most convenient option. Many of the tour companies will make their money driving groups to the same locations every day, so if you only have time to do the highlights, group travel might be your best option.
Unless you’re driving from elsewhere, the best way to get a car is when you land at Calgary International Airport (YYC). Be aware that if you are landing at night, the car rental center will be closed, so check the hours before you get those plane tickets, or you will be waiting or taking an Uber to your accommodation and back.
Food
It is going to be difficult to find bad food in and around Banff. There are a lot of options in each category, so don’t worry if you need some fast food, a grocery store, or a romantic dinner. Plan ahead, there could be a wait wherever you go.
The Grizzly House may be the most singular, unique restaurant in town. Today they serve fondue and other, more run of the mill items, but they began selling alcohol and experience as the main course, with food from the neighboring chinese restaurant available, but only to comply with a law that required food to be sold if alcohol was sold. In former days the Grizzly was a go-to spot for go-go dancing, disco, and swinger culture. Today, it is more family friendly, and always busy. They take reservations, so plan ahead!
Park Distillery is the only distillery in Banff, and one of only two distilleries in national parks in the North Americas. Distillery tours are available, as well as tastings, and we recommend the espresso vodka and the maple whiskey especially.
Here is a link to a map of many of the places listed here, and a few more!